Hakone Day 4: Running against the tide for the train (pg 1)

Written by silver on April 22nd, 2008

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Originally uploaded by silverlantern

The past three days have been exhausting. Lots of walking, very little sleep. This past night was no different. After we got back we packed our bags and called Ed to coordinate the next few days. They were going to head down to Kyoto before us so we needed to decide how and when we would meet up next. We finally decided that they would meet us in Hakone for the day before going further south to Osaka for the night. We would then meet up again in 2 days in Kyoto.

Today was to be our ‘holiday’. We wanted to relax and take it slow, that’s what the Japanese do at Hakone too. Since we couldn’t check into the ryokan in Hakone until 3pm we could take our time getting there. But then I remembered seeing an interesting spa amusement park/resort online. I woke up early and called everyone, they were all interested in the park. We then got up earlier than planned so that we could catch the 9am train for the 2 hour trip. We checked out, brought our luggage down to be sent ahead to Kyoto and then with a smaller day bag we headed to the station. There we bought 2 day passes that included the ride to Hakone and all the other modes of transportation there.

As we went down the stairs to our train we heard the bell notifying everyone that the train was leaving. Ack! Since this was for a longer haul we didn’t know when the next train would arrive, for sure it would be at least another 30 minutes. Panicking, we made a run for it, entering the train right before the door closed and almost losing Di and Jason who got caught up in the crowd leaving and exiting from other trains in the process. 

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Tokyo Day 3: Another feast, just how much can one eat in a day?? (pg 5)

Written by silver on April 21st, 2008

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Originally uploaded by silverlantern

So what next? Well, with a few hours until the next time we eat, we thought maybe we should see more of Tokyo. In Shinjuku we walked around trying to find some kind of government building to go up on the observatory. For a while we couldn’t see it, there were so many tall buildings in Shinjuku! While we wondered the streets I saw a most interesting traffic light …um.. fixture… All the lights are fixed in a circle on top of the intersection. Very cool indeed.

Anyhow, we eventually spotted the building and made our way up to the observatory zipping up to the top in seconds. The view was great, Jason was even able to catch the sunset with his camera. We spent some time browsing the giftshop, buying souvineres while Jae and Binh had a beer at the bar to rest their feet.

Next stop, Shinagawa station to meet up with Ed and Claudia. Claudia heard about this great sushi on a belt place that had very reasonable prices.

IMG_0427I have seen sushi on a belt, never really tried it, but this one takes the cake. On top of having the usual running belt with plates of food, they had beer in buckets and ice cream in coolers. Even cooler is the ordering system.

Each table has a touch screen to order specific types of sushi. Your order then comes on the belt in a red colored container. How do you know it’s your order? First it flashes on the screen and second, it starts to beep the moment it comes within grabbing distance. Very cool.

The method of getting tea is also very interesting. Do it yourself. You scoop a few spoonfuls of the macha powder into your cup and then fill it with hot water from a spigot installed right into the table. Isn’t it great, not having to wait or bother the waitress for hot tea! Ingenious!

When we were done we had collected a huge pile of plates. You then send the plates down a little chute on your table. As you send it down, the monitor counts, and every 10 plates would activate the slot machine. If you win, then a toy from a nearby gasha pon come rolling down. We won once out of our almost 40 plates.

Sidebar: The rating game
While waiting for Ed and Claudia at the train station, Jae came up with a game to play with Diem and I. The first person to see someone wearing a certain color gets to punch the person next to us. The colors were determined by going down the rainbow spectrum. You think colors like purple, orange and yellow would be hard, but the people of Tokyo are fashonable and the game went rather fast, we made it through a few rounds before Ed and Claudia showed up.

Tokyo Day 3: What Luck! Two great eats in one day (pg 4)

Written by silver on April 21st, 2008

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Originally uploaded by silverlantern

After our adventure, we went to a legendary ramen place that was reputed by the internet to have the best ramen in the world, Taishoken on Higashi Ikebukuro in Asakusa. There is a rather interesting history regarding the store too if you care to google it.

Seems like the day was made for us to get lost. We saw the place initially, a little store with a red banner in front and a few people waiting in line to enter, when we got out of the station, but we turned and went down another street instead. After asking a worker working on the telephone pole, who pointed in the direction we came from did we realize our mistake. We returned, got in line and observed as the customer in front of us paid for his meal using the ticket machine. Then it was our turn, we faced the vending machine, it was all in Japanese and not a picture in sight. After standing there for a few minutes with the line growing ever longer behind us (to my surprise, everyone patiently waited without even giving us dirty looks, harass, or try to cut in front of us), eventually one of the cooks came out and started speaking in Chinese. Whew, a language I know. He told us what each of the items were and went back in. We quickly bought our tickets and then stood outside not knowing what to do next.

The store was packed, should we go in, or wait for someone to call us? I peeked in and the cook waved us in. We waited quietly lined up along the wall watching the eaters slurping their noodle away. Looks and smells so good. Turnover was exceptionally fast. Soon some tables cleared and we gave the cooks our ticket. We paired up and sat separately from the group, no matter, we were there to slurp and go. Within minutes, each of us had a huge piping hot bowl of awesome ramen. The noodle was fresh, the broth, outstanding. For days afterward, Jae and Di the ramen lovers still dreamt of it.

Sidebar: Knowing a few key phrases
I’ve often read that it’s good to know a few key phrases when traveling to a foreign country. That is true, but I find that knowing polite phrases like thank you and excuse me and important words like bathroom is much more useful than knowing ones like Where is x? or How to get there? Because, knowing how to ask doesn’t mean you will understand the answer.

Tokyo Day 3: What does it take to find Kon?! (pg 3)

Written by silver on April 21st, 2008

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Originally uploaded by silverlantern

Afterwards we took the subway to Akihabara to check out the electronics and anime of Japan. Again there were no distinct signs pointing to places of interest. We wanted to get to a building that looked like it would be a key place to be but couldn’t for the life of us figure out where we were we came out of from the train station. It would’ve been a great help if we had just known which way north was. We walked a ways, stopped to look at our map and then consulted the maps posted on the sidewalk, but alas they were all in Japanese, and our map entirely in English. Unfortunately I don’t remember any of the Japanese alphabets I learned only a year ago so I couldn’t even sound them out if I wanted to. Eventually we went to a coffee shop for some coffee and to ask directions.

When we finally started down the right street, Binh and Di suddenly had a craving for frenchfries. Spotting a nearby McDonalds, they went in to buy fries. Only to come out dissappointed because it was still breakfast time and they had to wait 10 more minutes. Since we had our walkies, the rest of our group went ahead while Binh and Diem stayed to wait for the fries. Click to continue »

Tokyo Day 3: You’ve never had fresh until you’ve tasted fresh (pg 2)

Written by silver on April 21st, 2008

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Originally uploaded by silverlantern

By now, it was around 9, and we were hungry. Since the place was so big, we had to stop to ask a security guy how to get to the restaurant section among all those warehouses. When we reached the restaurant that our Frommers guide recommended, there was already a line. Many foreigners, many carrying a Frommer in their backpack I’d suspect. I must first note that when I say restaurant, I really meant place where food is served to be eaten vs the food that was being sold in the market area, because these places aren’t really restaurants, but a narrow hole in the wall consisting of a cooking area behind a bar and a half dozen stools set up on the other side. One literally has to walk in sideways, back sliding along the wall to get to a seat.

 With such limited seats, and us a group of 6, we were in no mood to wait. Sure the book recommended this place, but there are a dozen other ones around, and they all get their fish from the exact same place… the fish market in the next warehouse, so how different could it be? Diem and Jae went to a place that was advertising eel bowls; for sure that was cooked. The rest of us went to a place two doors down for some fresh fish in the raw.

Ordering was very easy; there were a dozen pictures of the types of meals one could get posted right outside the door. Walking in we just tell them the number we want. I even practiced saying my number in Japanese and they understood!

The meal came with tea, miso, pickles, sweet yams and about 10 pieces of fresh sashimi layered on a bowl of rice, all for under 1700 yen!. Everything was yummy, the fish especially fresh. Di got some crab which she shared and the meat was so sweet! We had to eat fast as there were so few seats and people were already waiting outside. Eat, pay, leave. I wish I could’ve taken a picture of the food, but the place wouldn’t allow pictures.

DSC_7351-01When we were done we found Jae and Diem having a lively conversation with the owner, JJ, of the eel bowl place. The guy knew English and was busy teaching Japanese to them. Soon we were piled in the small nook repeating phrases after the guy. He even gave us handouts of common phrases to use in restaurants. Like, “What do you recommend?” “Osusumewa nan desuka?” Binh especially took a liking to the word sugeh which I believe means amazing.

Tokyo Day 3: The new samurais of Japan (pg 1)

Written by silver on April 21st, 2008

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Originally uploaded by silverlantern

We got up really early the next day to see the famous fish market. Jae, who doesn’t eat raw fish didn’t want to go at first because we were planning to eat there for breakfast. I told him that he could come with us to see the place then back to the hotel for a nap while we ate. Diem who also doesn’t do raw also almost didn’t go because she was sleepy. But moments after she declined, she called me back and said that she was in Japan, and visiting fish markets are what tourists do in Japan, so by golly, she gonna do it.

   So, the 6 of us, braving the slight early morning chill, was soon on the subway bound for the Tsuski fish market.

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Tokyo Day 2: Ninjas really aren’t that quiet, it’s just loud everywhere else (pg 3)

Written by silver on April 20th, 2008

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Originally uploaded by silverlantern

The ninjas took us inside in two groups. When it was our turn we walked in and faced a closed door. Our hostess told us that a ninja would suddenly appear our of somewhere and guide us and gave two loud claps. Excited, we looked around in anticipation. Nothing…. Then we turned around and instead of popping out, this ninja just kinda strolled out of a door behind the hostess’s door. Oh…., well, wow, be still my pounding heart… really.

The ninja then guided us through a dark hallway, a few sharp turns and some low lying beams, yelling the whole time how ninjas are experts at navigating such obstacles. Interesting but not really exciting, our ninja sounded kinda bored, I’d say that the haunted houses at the local park during Halloween are more exciting. Maybe it would be better if we were Japanese and he didn’t have to speak English…(you can hear a brief recording of it on my Flikr)

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Tokyo Day 2: Hey! It’s that guy… wait, I don’t know who you are… (pg 1)

Written by silver on April 20th, 2008

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Originally uploaded by silverlantern

Jae and I had a different agenda from the rest of the group the next day. I had plans to visit my relatives for lunch at their home so we actually had to wake up earlier than everyone else. To make matters worse, I wasn’t on west coast time like everyone else, but infact was on east coast time still, and waking up was like being hit by a sledgehammer. Well, as I was on vacation, I guess it’s a fun type of hammer, like the ones I had as a kid that squeak. Anyhow, I was tired, but at the same time, IT’S OUR FIRST DAY IN JAPAN! So dang it, I’m going to wake up and drag my butt out of the door.

The night before, I stayed up to wrap all the gifts I brought. Yes, I brought gift boxes, wrapping paper, ribbons, bows and tape with me because I didn’t want to risk the TSA ripping open the presents in the case where the items sets off some alarm in their x-ray machines. You never know… that clasp on the bag could be some kind of newly developed and very fancy people destroyer of some sort. And the presents must be wrapped because (I think) fancy wrapping is half the fun in receiving a gift (except usually I’m too lazy or too cheap to do fancy wrapping). AND, this is the second time I’ve seen my relatives, last time being over 10 yrs ago, and there may never be a next time. Click to continue »

Tokyo Day 2: Follow your instincts (pg 2)

Written by silver on April 20th, 2008

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Originally uploaded by silverlantern

So, we hopped on the subway and went to Ginza, exiting right outside the Nissan showroom. Even though we’ve seen the car before at the auto show a few months ago, and they only had 1 in the showroom vs the 3 Jae thought they would have, we spent a good 30 minutes there. Just looking, gazing, admiring…and for the first time, touching, and even sitting in it. At least that was what Jae did, my cousin and I kinda just stood around, amused.

Afterwards we went outside and decided to check out the Apple store. As we were making our way there our walkie suddenly came to life with a sputter. Ever since we got to Ginza I’ve been pressing the call button every few minutes hoping that our group would hear us. By that time I was ready to give up, figuring that they must have already left the area. Click to continue »

Tokyo Day 1: One moment to the next at light speed

Written by silver on April 19th, 2008

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Originally uploaded by silverlantern

The week leading up to the trip was hectic with me in DC for a business trip. I flew back Thursday at around 5pm, finished packing my stuff, picked up our friend who was traveling with us and headed up to LA. By the time we made it to bed it was way too late. The next morning the airport shuttle picked up the 4 of us and away we went!

12 hours later we were in Tokyo. We grabbed our luggage and proceeded to the limousine bus stop only to find that we had missed the last bus by a few minutes. Our vacation package included transportation now completely useless.
 
Even though I expected to be dropped off at the hotel by the limousine bus, it was a good thing that I copied some general directions to the hotel from the nearest train station. It always feels good when a little extra effort pays off. The stations in Tokyo are wonderful, with everything clearly labeled in Japanese and English! What would I do if I didn’t come from an English speaking country… or worse, a non alphabet using country. I’d be spending hours trying to figure out what the symbols mean. Before long, we figured out the stop we needed to our destination.

An hour later we popped out of the station, taking the nearest exit we saw. Unbeknownst to us, stations can be rather large, and if you arn’t careful you could come out in a completely different neighborhood. Fortunately for us, we picked the right side to come out because the map placed outside the exit showed that the Tokyo tower was right behind the building in front of us. Our hotel was conveniently located near it. Within 10 minutes we were checked in and in our room.

I was warned to expect small hotel rooms in Japan, but the ones we got were just a bit smaller than in the US, only the bathrooms were small. The fully functional bidet and the fact that we were given Shiseido shampoo/conditioner/body wash made up for the size.

As we freshened up to go out for dinner, Jae’s cousin, Ed called us. They had arrived in Japan earlier that week from Australia and we had plans to meet the next day for dinner, but since they missed their event that evening they had time to hang out that night.

Ed’s girlfriend Claudia had spent some time in Japan during college so she knew her way around and most importantly the language. She took us to Roppongi where the night life is most active for some BBQ. As we walked to the station we noticed how empty and quiet the streets were. Our group of 8, usually considered pretty quiet back home echoed our chattering and laughter up and down the street. Central Tokyo, 11 pm, yet it was quiet, well lit, clean, and felt very safe. Roppongi on the other hand was hopping. People, taxis, lights everywhere, but still very quiet, no honking or yelling.

Claudia took us to a place that was located in the basement of some building. We went down a street, and then all of a sudden, turned and down a narrow flight of stairs. I wouldn’t be able to get back there again on my own. After briefly waiting we were shown to a Japanese style room where the table was set in a depression on a tatami covered floor/seat. We had to take off our shoes before entering, but once seated there was room under the table for our feet.

IMG_0245Since she could speak the language, Claudia ordered a bunch of stuff for us and we spent the next hour or two grilling and eating. We were tired before but now wide awake. The food was excellent, really good pickled cucumbers, salads, and the meat too. I’m not too good with types of meat, but whatever we got was good, even the tongue.

We ate so much that I was half afraid to look at the bill, but it turned out to be quite reasonable, around $25 per person.

After dinner we walked around the area, then to a small cafe for some ice cream and cake. Ordering was as easy as pointing at the picture and holding up an index finger for 1.

As we were finishing up, one of Claudia’s friends showed up, he came from the birthday party Claudia and Ed missed earlier that night and wanted to stop by to say hi. For learning English only in school as a second language, we were all rather impressed with his grasp of the language. Grammar was great, just a little uncertain on the pronunciation. Bravo.

By now, it was way past midnight and we had no more energy to go on, all the subways had stopped for the night so we took the taxi back to the hotel while Ed and Claudia continued their evening at a club with their friends.

Japan was off to a pretty good start already! 

Sidebar: Japanese politeness
As we were taking group pictures on the sidewalk, a guy in a hurry half ducked and walked across the view of the camera, we didn’t say anything as we were taking quite a bit of time but waited for him to pass. Upon reaching the other side he suddenly became embarrassed, stopped, turned around and started bowing to us while apologizing profusely. His lady friend who had stopped walking so that she wouldn’t block the camera’s view started giggling which only made him bow some more.